Modbo 4 0 Installations

  

The ultimate in universal PS2 Mod Chips. The Modbo 4 PS2 Mod Chip is the latest chip from the guys at Modbo.

The ModBo 4.0 is considered one of the most universally compatible PS2 Mod Chips on the market today. With support for all version of PS2 Consoles from v1-v16 Mod Chip users rave about its better compatibility with DVD 9 games, the Modbo 4.0 runs dual layer much better then older models. Modbo 4 comes on a differently layed out pcb to earlier model Modbo chips for a slightly neater install. It also have the ability to turn your PS2 into a totally DVD Region Free Player, as well as removes Macrovision protection from DVD Movies so that you can record your DVD movies to VHS tapes directly from your PS2 DVD Drive. Excellent chip for end users as well as installers.

The 6 Must Read Tips For A Successfull PS2 Mod Chip Installation. Installing a mod chip into your Playstation 2 can be a bit of an intimidating task. Unless you've been glued to a soldering iron and have the utmost confidence in your soldering abilities - you're probably scratching your head wondering if you'll be able to do. The Modbo 4.0 is fully supported and currently manufactured alternative to other PS2 Modchips offering the exact same features. Please note that basic soldering skills are required in order to install the Modbo 4.0 Modchip. You can find all required informations about the installation under our „Downlodas & Tutorials“.

No more guessing which model PS2 you have, because this ps2 mod chip will just do it all. Product Details • Fully compatible with ps2 v1-v16 PAL / USA / Jap • Upgraded from modbo3. Dominion Piano Serial Numbers on this page. 0, comes with original 100% v1.88 firmware, but it isn't upgradeable • Comes with mini size board and the wiring point order is good for installation • Automatic selection for PS2/PS1/DVD supports • DVD region free incorporated • Software selectable 'PS2 Quick Load' option. • Good Chip and Works Perfect Posted by Luois on 25th Apr 2015 A lot of the chips for the PS2 systems just plain SUCK! I've gone through 3 different stores, each one sending me a chip that didn't work in my PS2 system (Slim model).

The ModBo 4.0 if the first chip that actually ended up working in my PS2 - because it really IS a universal chip - and not a chip designed for a single model of the ps2 system. If you're not sure which modchip you need, then get this one - it'll jus work! • One of the last places to find this modchip! Posted by Bruce M on 8th Aug 2013 I thought i would be out of luck 'cause no matter where I looked, I could not find the modbo mod chips any more. I know they're not a current item, but I was so happy to find it here so that I could buy it for my PS2. Received the chip (with free wires - thanks!!!!) and had it installed in 30 minutes and everything is working as advertised!

Hello again everyone, So I was able to install the modchip for the PS2 version 7 SCPH 39001. I am wondering if I installed it incorrectly or the chip was incorrectly placed. If anyone has a picture of where to place the chip and the best wire routes your help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried using originals, memorex backups to no avail either the RSOD or a dark screen saying 'Disk Read Error'. I recently purchased a replacement laser on eBay and was wondering if anyone knows where the anti-static protection points are for the laser HD7. Here are the pictures on mediafire Thanks all, HaloSlayer255 P.S.

Modbo 4 0 Installations

Before I forget this was the installation diagram that I had followed on sksapps.com. Looks good all except for this pic: I can see that one of your cables was crushed under one of the housing screws. It tore open and now makes contact with ground, as though you soldered it to ground.

You have to make sure that nothing gets shorted to any points other than their specific points. Thank you very much Jazzmarazz, I had attempted to try to route the wires closer and when I reassembled the console I heard a clicking sound like the laser was slaming against the disk. The disk will not spin, and the screen remains black. It does not even show the Matrix logo anymore:-( does this mean that I killed the PS2? Also the H connection I have left unsoldered, but when I solder it, I have found that the screen stays black, any advice on where to solder the H connection would be greately appreciated.

Also if you have this same version and same chip installed could you upload a few pics of your install? Thanks, HaloSlayer255. I use FreeMcBoot, so no mod chips. I am very experienced with soldering though. Connection H will definitely need wired but the tutorial doesn't show it. Try this spot for H and tell us what happens: Also, did you fix the crushed wire?Hello again Jazzmarazz, Thank you for the quick replies. As for the H connection I did try that and nothing changed, I did fix the wire (I think it may have been the G connection).

Now I might be in big trouble, when I reassembled the console I tried to eject the tray however it is not responding. It is as if the laser is dead. I assume this connection is the IC that has M,N,O,P and the other connections that are near the IC chip. I will double check those connections and everything else is the same. Also a quick question if you would know; what does the H connection do? (Hopefully I did not kill/murder the console.) Thanks again Jazzmarazz, HaloSlayer255 P.S. Here is a link to a new video of the mod-chip install (If it looks out of focus the camcorder is a Cobra DVC910) and also a few pics I found on the Net, I tried to follow modbo4-v7-usa003.JPG as closely as possible.

Here are all the new links Last edited by HaloSlayer255; 23rd-April-2012 at 01:55. Reason: Question about H connection. If the tray does not eject, it does not mean that the laser is dead; it meas your tray will not eject! I want to assume that a contact is shorted to another contact. The spots where you solder to are very small and can easily be shorted and would create unimaginable difficulty. There is a possibility that something has been 'killed' but lets not assume that.

If you want to know for sure whether the console is dead or not, you can always clip all of the wires and start over. It will be frustrating to do Im sure, but you'll get a definite answer.make sure to check any contacts that may have been shorted like the ones on the IC pins just to the left of your mod chip. Start by clipping Ground on your mod chip and see if it boots properly. I also noticed you have a wire running over the mod chip. It looks brown or copper colored. It looks like it has no plastic over the copper. Hi Jazzmarazz, The wires do have insulation on them it just looks the same as an orange copper color:, I salvaged them from a spare USB cable that I wasn't using.

I might attempt the mod all over again later in the week. I could try it a few wires a night over the next week. Thanks again for the quick replies and useful tips Jazzmarazz, HaloSlayer255 Update: My school was canceled for today so I will re-attempt the mod later. I was able to desolder all the connections and remove all shorts, when I was desoldering some wires it accidentally created shorts near capacitors and/or resistors but I got them. As a side note I did see a little solder ball on pins 6 and 7 of the power reset switch and that may have had something to do with the laser acting weird. I will try to reply later in the day, I finished cleaning the rosin flux residue off the ps2 motherboard with 70% isopropyl alcohol, and when I removed the power/eject switch this time I must have tore off the blue plastic part. I did find it though and am waiting for the epoxy to dry, I also have it in a clamp to make sure it doesn't move.

Thank you very much Jazzmarazz for helping me troubleshoot the install:-D! Last edited by HaloSlayer255; 23rd-April-2012 at 12:54. Reason: Just desoldered all connections to modbo 4.0.

Well I think I killed the laser anyways, checked for bridges/shorts and found none remaining on the board. Reassembled the console and tested it, the drive eject button doesn't turn on and the laser does not respond no matter what. Is there anyway I could attempt repair or is it dead? I might not have mentioned this before but I saw a piece of black plastic was missing from where the white laser guide deck goes, could this also cause the laser to not respond? Thank you for your help Jazzmarazz, HaloSlayer255 P.S. If I need to get a new PS2 what versions does the Modbo 4.0 have support for PS1 anti-mod games? I have heard v9-v16 and some websites say v9-v19, could you confirm?

Thanks again Jazzmarazz Last edited by HaloSlayer255; 23rd-April-2012 at 22:30. Reason: asking about anti-mod support. Im sorry to hear your PS2 may be dead, but I have no way of saying whether or not it is fixable or what could possibly be wrong to begin with.

I cannot say whether you require this mysterious 'piece of black plastic' becuase I do not know what it could be. I also do not know anything about PS2 modchips are revisions of the PS2 hardware. As I said before, I play burned games with FreeMcBoot.

Im afraid that I cannot be of any help. All I can offer is to trade you a FreeMcBoot memory card for your mod chip to try for myself. This does not solve your problem of a broken PS2 though. Im sorry to hear your PS2 may be dead, but I have no way of saying whether or not it is fixable or what could possibly be wrong to begin with.

I cannot say whether you require this mysterious 'piece of black plastic' becuase I do not know what it could be. I also do not know anything about PS2 modchips are revisions of the PS2 hardware. As I said before, I play burned games with FreeMcBoot. Im afraid that I cannot be of any help. All I can offer is to trade you a FreeMcBoot memory card for your mod chip to try for myself. This does not solve your problem of a broken PS2 though.

Good luck.Its alright Jazzmarazz, Thank you very much for your advice, I might just keep the PS2 for parts and get another at gamestop (hopefully the same version, otherwise I can keep the laser hopefully). Now I just need to remove the modchip and do one last inspection before I declare it dead. Hopefully I can get more practice so that this does not happen to me again in the future. Since you have had experience with FreeMcBoot have you ever used lenschanger? I wonder since my console uses the HD7 laser can it be made to use the KHS-400C laser, if you have used the program before? I suppose I could also try recalibrating the laser later on though.

As for the missing piece of plastic there is a small track that a white piece of plastic goes on, I assume this is for when the disk is loaded and when it ejects. The slide tools may come to mind mentioning this, I really really hope that it can be salvageable, when I realigned the modbo 4.0 I had to use some force to get it off of the IC chip. I will look there as well to see if everything is in place. I appreciate your offer on the trade but I would prefer to keep the mod-chip, It was a long time waiting on eBay. On just a random search I did Modbo 4.0 and there was the chip lol I will try this all over again after friday, school is going to be an obstacle for sure.

Anyways here are the new videos, again thank you for all of your help Jazzmarazz. Good night, HaloSlayer255.

I don't think your laser is dead, it just does not move on its own. It would seem that some problem is preventing your system from performing its self check as though it does not actually boot. I have not looked any further since I have taken all of my electronic engineering courses, but I want to assume the power switch is nothing more than a logical switch. What I mean is that it is hardware based rather than software, so by pressing the button, a specific voltage relevant to '1' is toggled to a 0 and vice versa. With '1' the LED may light up but the system is not technically 'on'. Turtle Odyssey 2 Keygen on this page. I cannot know for sure though. Remove your modchip and let me know if any problems are solved.

I own both a FAT and slim PS2 and the FAT version which you have is very very strong. I do not like to admit, but I have launched my own clear across the room into a wall and it still works no problem. As for the missing piece of plastic, it looks like it is nothing more than a disk tray block. It will prevent your tray from falling out when it is ejected, but since it will not eject.it does not matter. I do think you broke it off the first time you pulled the tray out becuase mine is much more secure than that. Hi again, Jazzmarazz, I think I found a possible solution.

I mentioned before that the little blue plastic came off of the Power/Eject ribbon cable, and that I was able to reglue it with epoxy. I wonder if the cable is losing connection, because I did a accidental test which might be a pointer to the culprit. I removed the power eject ribbon cable from the power/eject circuit board side with the leds. I must have cause the cable to loose connection a little because I had to hold the cable still to get a steady power to get the green power light. I wonder if somewhere that pins 6 and 7 (counting from right to left with white connector facing you) are related to the 39001 CD/DVD power, that it might not be receiving power and thus not moving.

I will try to repair the cable and post back later. Maybe this can be made as a tutorial sticky (so others know what to do and not to do lol ). Thank you again very much Jazzmarazz, HaloSlayer255 P.S. I was able to get 1 last bridge near the CD/DVD IC legs, I just used the stock tip for the Radioshack 15/30 watt soldering iron at the 30 watt setting with desoldering braid and extra rosin flux and it cleared easy I will update probably tomorrow if/when I get the ribbon cable finished.